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Cedar - Cedrus sp.
General Information: Before I discuss what cedar is, perhaps I'd better clarify
what cedar isn't. Eastern red cedar isn't a Cedrus at all, it's a
juniper - Juniperus virginiana (which, BTW, is the "cedar" used as
fragrant red cedar woodwork). Eastern white cedar and Western red cedar
aren't Cedrus either, they're arborvitae - Thuja occidentalis and Thuja
plicata, respectively. Incense cedar, Calocedrus decurrens, is close,
but no cigar. Japanese cedar is Cryptomeria japonica.
When is a cedar not a cypress? When it's a
Chamaecyparis. Too add to all this wonderful mess, we have Chamaecyparis
lawsoniana, the Port Orford cedar, and Chamaecyparis thyoides, the
Western or Atlantic white cedar, which are actually considered
false-cypresses (why not false-cedars?)
These distinctions, in the case of Cedrus, are
mind-bogglingly important. The watering requirements for Cedrus are very
different than those for false- cypress. And confuse Cedrus with Thuja?
Cedrus likes it warm and dry, and has a reputation for being a
high-strung, finicky bonsai (although those that grow cedar in something
close to its natural Mediterranean climate report great success). Thuja
could probably be kicked the length of your yard and stuck in the
freezer for a few days. Not, of course, that I recommend
this.)
Probably the easiest way to keep things straight is
to remember that Cedrus is a very small genera. There are only four
kinds of cedar and they all have pointy needles like pines, spruces and
firs (the Pinaceae). The impostors (except Cryptomeria) all have scaly,
frondlike foliage when mature (family Cupressaceae). All true cedars
originated in the Old World - the Mediterranean and the Himalayas.
Cedars are large evergreen trees with grey bark - smooth at first,
becoming rough with age - and erect, woody cones. Cedar wood has
historically been important in commerce, and remains popular today for
its fine scent.
Family: Pinaceae
Lighting: Full
sun.
Temperature: Most
will need some frost protection. May need some protection from wind burn
to prevent branch dieback in colder areas.
Watering: Moderate in
summer, reducing as the weather gets colder. Allow the soil to dry
somewhat between waterings. Needles turn yellow when
overwatered.
Feeding: Every two
weeks during spring and autumn. Stop feeding during the heat of
midsummer.
Repotting: Every 3-5
years in spring, Preferably before new white roots appear in
February-April, using a fast-draining soil mix. Cedars do not like root
disturbance, so repot only when necessary. C. atlas glauca is especially
sensitive and needs extra humidity to avoid shedding its needles. If
needle loss occurs, buds should soon burst forth. According to the
Samsons, cedars do not like to be bare-rooted when being
repotted.
Pruning and wiring:
Pinch back new shoots. Heavy pruning should be avoided, as the cedar
takes quite a long time to heal pruning scars. If it is necessary,
jinning branch stubs may be a more attractive option than leaving a
scarred trunk. Brent Walston shared the following method of producing
large trunks on Cedrus:
Decide how tall you want your tree to be, six
times the diameter of the trunk is ideal, you can give yourself some
leeway because it will increase in diameter while in training. Then
look for a likely spot to cut the top off, I look for a set of close
internodes around the height I want, this will give a good apex. About
six inches above this point make a forty five degree angle cut on the
BACK of the tree about halfway through. Grab the top of the tree and
break it, pulling it down and ripping the wood and bark on the front
of the tree. You can pull it down as far as you want exposed wood to
show, all the way to the crown if you like, but not into the roots or
rot will result. When pulled down to the right position twist and
break it as much as possible to get it free at this point, you may
have to do some cutting, but breaking it free looks more natural. At
the cut portion of the top, split the wood vertically with branch
cutters and pull down bundles of fibers with pliers until no saw cut
marks are visible. The effect that you want is that of a lightening
struck tree. I grab the fibers with the pliers and roll the pliers
down the trunk rather than give a straight pull, you can exert much
more force this way.
The tree may be wired at any time, but the branches
take a while to set, and the wire may need to be on for three months up
to a year. If it's on that long, be sure to check it often to make sure
it doesn't cut into the bark!
Propagation: Soak
seeds for 48 hours, then one month cold pre-treatment before sowing. In
my experience, the seeds are suceptible to mold, and soaking in a weak
bleach solution before cold treatment may be desired. Seeds should be
sown in spring. preferably in May. Cedar seedlings should be potted up
and staked after their first year. Cyprian cedar and blue Atlas cedar
are usually propagated through grafting, which can be done in late
summer. Softwood cuttings may be taken in spring, or hardwood cuttings
taken in autumn.
Pests and Diseases: Bark beetles, caterpillars, honey fungus.
Some species suitable for bonsai:
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